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Headers for the micro controller

Headers for the micro controller

From:
Aaron Lee
Date:
2015-02-06 @ 04:39
The micro controller came with headers that are not soldered to the
board. The instructions call for soldering pins to the
microcontroller, but it seems like the headers would be easier to
attach. However there is a small standoff on the header that would
keep the microcontroller a few millimeters further from the circuit
board than just using the pins. Is there enough clearance for the
headers or are the pins made from the diodes absolutely necessary?

Thanks,
Aaron

Re: [atreus] Headers for the micro controller

From:
Aj Christensen
Date:
2015-02-06 @ 04:43
Yo,

On Fri, Feb 6, 2015 at 5:39 PM, Aaron Lee <wwkeyboard@gmail.com> wrote:

> The micro controller came with headers that are not soldered to the
> board. The instructions call for soldering pins to the
> microcontroller, but it seems like the headers would be easier to
> attach. However there is a small standoff on the header that would
> keep the microcontroller a few millimeters further from the circuit
> board than just using the pins. Is there enough clearance for the
> headers or are the pins made from the diodes absolutely necessary?
>

The micro-controller is pretty much smushed up against the board, there
isn't really a lot of room. You could dummy fit it and try, but don't
solder down any of the switches! This will be painful to undo.

I went for the diode leg route myself..

cheers,

--aj

Re: [atreus] Headers for the micro controller

From:
Jd Carpenter
Date:
2015-02-06 @ 04:51
You can also solder the headers on, then remove the plastic spacers from
the header pins. They will pull right off with pliers.


On Thursday, February 5, 2015, AJ Christensen <aj@junglistheavy.industries>
wrote:

> Yo,
>
> On Fri, Feb 6, 2015 at 5:39 PM, Aaron Lee <wwkeyboard@gmail.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','wwkeyboard@gmail.com');>> wrote:
>
>> The micro controller came with headers that are not soldered to the
>> board. The instructions call for soldering pins to the
>> microcontroller, but it seems like the headers would be easier to
>> attach. However there is a small standoff on the header that would
>> keep the microcontroller a few millimeters further from the circuit
>> board than just using the pins. Is there enough clearance for the
>> headers or are the pins made from the diodes absolutely necessary?
>>
>
> The micro-controller is pretty much smushed up against the board, there
> isn't really a lot of room. You could dummy fit it and try, but don't
> solder down any of the switches! This will be painful to undo.
>
> I went for the diode leg route myself..
>
> cheers,
>
> --aj
>

Re: [atreus] Headers for the micro controller

From:
Phil Hagelberg
Date:
2015-02-06 @ 13:18
JD Carpenter <jdcarpe@gmail.com> writes:

> You can also solder the headers on, then remove the plastic spacers from
> the header pins. They will pull right off with pliers.

You can do this, and it's a lot easier to attach, but if you don't cut
the header pins down to size you won't be able to close the case. I
didn't go this route in the official instructions because I wanted
assembly to be doable with the fewest number of tools possible, and you
can't use wire cutters to cut the headers because they're too thick;
I've broken wire cutters on this before.

With a dremel or a hacksaw you could shorten the headers after
they're attached, but it would be easy to damage the board this way; I
don't think I would recommend it unless you really know what you're doing.

-Phil

Re: [atreus] Headers for the micro controller

From:
Jd Carpenter
Date:
2015-02-06 @ 14:19
Phil,

For my JD40s, which need the Teensy flush mounted to the PCB, what I
have done is solder the header pins to the controller board, remove
the spacers from the header pins, and then cut each header pin to
approximate length with wire cutters. Since you don't get very
accurate cuts of the pins that way, I finish trimming the pins to the
correct length by placing the controller board, pin side down, on top
of a flat file, and file down the pins to the correct length. To make
the initial cuts, I use cheap end nippers or side cut pliers from
Harbor Freight, which I am not worried about if they do get broken.

Of course, this might be considered a more advanced technique, and not
recommended for a neophyte builder. Your mileage, as always, may vary.

On Fri, Feb 6, 2015 at 7:18 AM, Phil Hagelberg <phil@hagelb.org> wrote:
> JD Carpenter <jdcarpe@gmail.com> writes:
>
>> You can also solder the headers on, then remove the plastic spacers from
>> the header pins. They will pull right off with pliers.
>
> You can do this, and it's a lot easier to attach, but if you don't cut
> the header pins down to size you won't be able to close the case. I
> didn't go this route in the official instructions because I wanted
> assembly to be doable with the fewest number of tools possible, and you
> can't use wire cutters to cut the headers because they're too thick;
> I've broken wire cutters on this before.
>
> With a dremel or a hacksaw you could shorten the headers after
> they're attached, but it would be easy to damage the board this way; I
> don't think I would recommend it unless you really know what you're doing.
>
> -Phil

Re: [atreus] Headers for the micro controller

From:
Phil Hagelberg
Date:
2015-02-06 @ 14:26
JD Carpenter <jdcarpe@gmail.com> writes:

> I finish trimming the pins to the correct length by placing the
> controller board, pin side down, on top of a flat file, and file down
> the pins to the correct length. To make the initial cuts, I use cheap
> end nippers or side cut pliers from Harbor Freight, which I am not
> worried about if they do get broken.

Nice. That is probably less tedious than using the diode legs; if you
have the right tools for it then go for it. =) This has definitely been
a point of confusion in the past; I recently revised the assembly
instructions to include clearer photos.

-Phil

Re: [atreus] Headers for the micro controller

From:
Sean Escriva
Date:
2015-02-06 @ 15:56
On Fri, Feb 6, 2015, at 09:26 AM, Phil Hagelberg wrote:
> JD Carpenter <jdcarpe@gmail.com> writes:
> 
> > I finish trimming the pins to the correct length by placing the
> > controller board, pin side down, on top of a flat file, and file down
> > the pins to the correct length. To make the initial cuts, I use cheap
> > end nippers or side cut pliers from Harbor Freight, which I am not
> > worried about if they do get broken.
> 
> Nice. That is probably less tedious than using the diode legs; if you
> have the right tools for it then go for it. =) This has definitely been
> a point of confusion in the past; I recently revised the assembly
> instructions to include clearer photos.

yea, the revised pictures helped clarify the process a little for me. I
just
used the diode legs and didn't really have any issues. It was actually
much
easier than I expected, even using the diode legs.

-sean

Re: [atreus] Headers for the micro controller

From:
Aaron Lee
Date:
2015-02-06 @ 16:35
I’ll try the diode legs first, I was partially worried about the keeping 
them straight and partially worried about how they will secure the 
controller. It’s going to have some stress because it’s also the 
connection for the USB port. Has anyone had any problems with plugging and
unplugging the cable repeatedly?




I’m probably being _way_ to paranoid. Everything else looks great about 
this kit, thanks for putting it together Phil!




~ Aaron


—
Sent from Mailbox

On Fri, Feb 6, 2015 at 9:57 AM, Sean Escriva <sean@escrivas.com> wrote:

> On Fri, Feb 6, 2015, at 09:26 AM, Phil Hagelberg wrote:
>> JD Carpenter <jdcarpe@gmail.com> writes:
>> 
>> > I finish trimming the pins to the correct length by placing the
>> > controller board, pin side down, on top of a flat file, and file down
>> > the pins to the correct length. To make the initial cuts, I use cheap
>> > end nippers or side cut pliers from Harbor Freight, which I am not
>> > worried about if they do get broken.
>> 
>> Nice. That is probably less tedious than using the diode legs; if you
>> have the right tools for it then go for it. =) This has definitely been
>> a point of confusion in the past; I recently revised the assembly
>> instructions to include clearer photos.
> yea, the revised pictures helped clarify the process a little for me. I
> just
> used the diode legs and didn't really have any issues. It was actually
> much
> easier than I expected, even using the diode legs.
> -sean

Re: [atreus] Headers for the micro controller

From:
Drew Raines
Date:
2015-02-06 @ 16:52
Aaron Lee <wwkeyboard@gmail.com> wrote:

> I’ll try the diode legs first, I was partially worried about the keeping
> them straight and partially worried about how they will secure the
> controller. It’s going to have some stress because it’s also the connection
> for the USB port. Has anyone had any problems with plugging and unplugging
> the cable repeatedly?
>

I had similar concerns, but you'll find that the solder around what becomes
a very short piece of wire, usually with solder completely covering it
through, that the controller is firmly ensconced onto the board.

In fact it's too much so.  I made some mistakes and had to completely
remove the controller and it was impossible without a desoldering pump.
The slight tugging on the USB cable over time may loosen the cable from the
socket, but there is quite literally no way the controller will come
loose.  The cable would probably break before that happens.

Drew

Re: [atreus] Headers for the micro controller

From:
Phil Hagelberg
Date:
2015-02-07 @ 03:09
Drew Raines <aaraines@gmail.com> writes:

> The slight tugging on the USB cable over time may loosen the cable from the
> socket, but there is quite literally no way the controller will come
> loose.  The cable would probably break before that happens.

If you're worried about stress from tugging on the cable, you can wrap
the cable with electrical tape at the point just below where it leaves
the case. The tape can make the cable thick enough that it won't have
any room to budge before hitting the spacer. That way any force from
pulling on the cable should be absorbed by the case and the screws there
instead of the controller.

-Phil